There is More Time to Plant in Fall

Every fall-planting advocate mentions it. In the fall, the gardener has far more time to get work done for two reasons. First of all, there is a longer period and far more "good days" for planting in the fall than during the tricky weather in spring. Secondly, the gardener always has more time during the fall than during the spring rush to get everything done after winter. (Many wildgardeners combine wildflower seed planting with fall bulb planting, and that's always a good idea. The times for both are identical.)

Easier Weed Control

Fall planting is done after your growing season has ended. That means any weed seed in your soil is dormant, unlike in spring when it's highly energized and bursting to grow.

This dormant situation is a real help to the gardener. For example, if you clear your seeding site one weekend, and don't plant your wildflower seed until the next, that's fine in the fall, and not OK in the spring. Obviously, with the weed seed dormant, you can take your time. But in spring, it's necessary to clear and seed on the same day, because if you don't, the weed seeds (they're in ALL soil) have a jump on the wildflower seed you're about to put down to compete with them.

With a fall planting, the weeds that do grow up in your flowers are easily removed when they appear as small plants along with your wildflower seedlings in spring.

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How To Plant Wildflowers in the Fall

You will find extensive details on Fall Planting in our Wildflower How-To's, including an in-depth comprehensive planting guide on why Fall Is For Planting Wildflowers.

The actual planting of your seed in fall is the same as it is in spring, except the weather is usually better and you can choose the time.

Choose your location and optimal planting time. Full sun is best, and a "border area" or more natural area between lawn and forest is perfect. Sowing should be done after a killer frost in your area, or after you are absolutely certain that the growing season is over and your seeds won't germinate until spring. In severe winter areas, that is from late September or October until the ground freezes. (If your area doesn't experience many frosts, consider planting at the beginning of the rainy season. In South Florida, annuals are planted in the fall for winter blooms. Along the Pacific Coast, they can be planted any time in late fall or winter.) Clear the soil of existing vegetation (grass, weeds, roots, other plants in the area). For small areas, this means turning over the soil with a shovel and removing any old growth. For larger areas, most safari gardeners use a rotary tiller. (If you don't have one, you can purchase one from a rental store, or your local landscaper will be happy to help.) When you till, till it is deep enough to remove the old growth. Deep tillage often results in more weed seeds reaching the soil surface. Spread the seeds evenly over bare soil. The best way to ensure uniformity is to divide wildflower seeds into two buckets or jars into roughly equal parts. Then add an appropriate amount of white construction sand (use the clean sand used in children's sandboxes) to each bucket and mix the seeds thoroughly with the sand. Then take the first bucket of sand/seed mixture and spread it evenly over the entire prepared site by hand. Next, do the same thing in the second half, but in the opposite direction. This makes it nearly impossible to leave bare spots when sowing seeds and ensures that the different wildflowers are evenly distributed throughout your planting mix. Not only does white sand make planting seeds easier, it also shows where you've been on the ground. Do not cover the seeds, just squeeze the entire area. After sowing, it is important to "press" the seeds into loose, exposed soil. To do this on a small area, simply walk over it and your footprints will do the trick. Just make sure to compress the entire area. (Kids love helping.) For medium-sized areas, we often put down a piece of plywood and jump on it. Lawn rollers are best for larger areas. Even when not filled with water, they "overwinter" the seeds very well. That's it. Don't cover it and forget about the birds when they arrive. Once your seeds are compacted to the soil surface, you're done. Don't mulch it or rake it. Keep peat moss, especially hay, out of this project. They don't need to. Although hay is sometimes placed on newly seeded lawns, you should not do this with wildflowers. Hay is full of weed seeds, remember you won't mow what appears here like you would a lawn. If you are planting on a slope, use weed-free straw if available to prevent winter erosion. But if you compact the soil, most sloped sites can survive the winter without any problems. Birds may arrive and start pecking (yes, eating) your seeds. If this happens, don't worry. This happens almost constantly in our plantations, even in a group, they never have enough to eat and affect the results of the grass.

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SHOP SEEDS

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What to Expect in Spring

When the weather warms in spring, you'll notice your seed sprouting early, just like fall-planted grass seed. Usually, you won't have to water, since spring weather is almost always wet enough. But if you suddenly see your little seedling area dry out, water immediately. No matter when you plant, your wildflower plants are the most vulnerable when they're very young.

 

 

With Wildflowers, it's easy to create an ever-changing landscape of color.

Normally, they'll be just fine and bloom should begin in as little as 5 weeks after you see the first seedlings. (Some wildflowers bloom very quickly.) Pull unwanted weeds as they appear, and as the spring and summer weeks go by, you'll see more and more species, and more and more color appear in your meadow. By July, you'll be taking in armloads of cut flowers, and giving bouquets to friends. That's the great joy of a wildflower planting.

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Fall Planting Results in Earlier Blooms

Like fall-seeded lawns, fall-planted wildflower seed has a chance to "settle" into your site during the winter, and is ready to burst into growth in early spring. This is why fall-planted wildflower seed is up and in bloom about two weeks earlier than spring-planted seed.

There is More Time to Plant in Fall

Every fall-planting advocate mentions it. In the fall, the gardener has far more time to get work done for two reasons. First of all, there is a longer period and far more "good days" for planting in the fall than during the tricky weather in spring. Secondly, the gardener always has more time during the fall than during the spring rush to get everything done after winter. (Many wildgardeners combine wildflower seed planting with fall bulb planting, and that's always a good idea. The times for both are identical.)

Easier Weed Control

Fall planting is done after your growing season has ended. That means any weed seed in your soil is dormant, unlike in spring when it's highly energized and bursting to grow.

This dormant situation is a real help to the gardener. For example, if you clear your seeding site one weekend, and don't plant your wildflower seed until the next, that's fine in the fall, and not OK in the spring. Obviously, with the weed seed dormant, you can take your time. But in spring, it's necessary to clear and seed on the same day, because if you don't, the weed seeds (they're in ALL soil) have a jump on the wildflower seed you're about to put down to compete with them.

With a fall planting, the weeds that do grow up in your flowers are easily removed when they appear as small plants along with your wildflower seedlings in spring.

How To Plant Wildflowers in the Fall

You will find extensive details on Fall Planting in our Wildflower How-To's, including a detailed account on how to create your own Wildflower Meadow.

The actual planting of your seed in fall is the same as it is in spring, except the weather is usually better and you can choose the time.

1. Choose your site and best planting time. Full sun is best, and a "border area" between lawn and woods or a more natural area is perfect. Planting should be done AFTER a killing frost in your area, or after you're quite sure the growing season has ended, and your seed won't sprout until spring. In heavy winter areas, that means from late September or October up until the ground freezes. (If you don't have much frost in your area, you should plant just before your rainiest season begins. South Florida plants annuals in the fall for winter bloom. Coastal areas on the Pacific can plant anytime during the late fall or winter.)
    

2. Clear the ground of existing growth (grass, weeds, roots, other plants in the area.) For small areas, this means turning the soil with a shovel, and then removing all the old growth. For larger areas, most wild gardeners use a rototiller. (If you don't own one, rental stores have them, or your local landscaper will be happy to help you.) If you till, till just deep enough to remove the old growth. Deep tilling tends to bring up more weed seed into the surface soil.
    

3. Spread the seed evenly over the bare soil. The best way to be sure it's even is to split your wildflower seed into two roughly equal parts in two buckets or cans. Then add a quantity of white builders sand (Use the clean sand used in children's' sandboxes) to each bucket and mix the seed well with the sand. Then take your first bucket of sand/seed mix, and hand-broadcast it evenly over your entire prepared site. Next, take the second half and do the same, walking in the reverse direction. This makes it almost impossible to leave bare spots in your seeding, and assures even distribution of the various wildflowers in the mix you're planting. The white sand not only makes the seed easier to sow, but it also shows up on the dirt, to show you "where you've been."
    

4. Don't cover the seed, just compress the whole area. Once your seed is sown, it's important to "squash" the seed into the loose, bare soil. To do this for small areas, just walk over it, and your footprints will do it. Just make sure you compress the entire area. (Kids love to help with this.) For medium sized areas, we often lay down a piece of plywood, and jump on it. For larger areas, a lawn roller is the best. Even without being filled with water, they do a perfect job of "putting your seeding to bed for the winter."
    

5. That's it. Do not cover, and forget the birds if they arrive. Once your seed is compressed on the surface of the soil, you're finished. Do not cover it, Do not rake it. Leave peat moss and especially hay OUT of this project. They're not needed. In fact, even though hay is sometimes put on newly-seeded lawns, don't do that to your wildflowers. Hay is full of weed seed, and remember, you're not going to mow what comes up here, as you would a lawn. If you've planted a slope, you can put down WEED-FREE straw if you can get it to prevent erosion during the winter. But if you've compressed the soil well, most inclined sites will be just fine through the winter.
   
   Birds may arrive and begin pecking at (yes, eating) your seed. It that happens, don't worry. It almost always happens to our plantings, and even if it's a flock, they are never able to eat enough to put a dent in the meadow results.

What to Expect in Spring

When the weather warms in spring, you'll notice your seed sprouting early, just like fall-planted grass seed. Usually, you won't have to water, since spring weather is almost always wet enough. But if you suddenly see your little seedling area dry out, water immediately. No matter when you plant, your wildflower plants are the most vulnerable when they're very young.

Normally, they'll be just fine and bloom should begin in as little as 5 weeks after you see the first seedlings. (Some wildflowers bloom very quickly.) Pull unwanted weeds as they appear, and as the spring and summer weeks go by, you'll see more and more species, and more and more color appear in your meadow. By July, you'll be taking in armloads of cut flowers, and giving bouquets to friends. That's the great joy of a wildflower planting.

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